It doesn’t get more South African than wine – or perhaps more winey than South Africa. If you’re venturing beyond Cape Town on your next trip, the Cape Winelands are likely on your itinerary. And if they’re not, they’re worthy additions to any tour of the country. The Constantia Wine Route, for instance, will give you a last blast of ramped-up summertime glamour. It’s a treat to whisk yourself off to a ravishing hotel and witness a particularly local brand of passionate expertise, expressed beautifully in Constantia’s boutique wineries and top restaurants.
Sip on this
The Constantia Valley isn’t just South Africa’s oldest wine region – it’s also the birthplace of one of the world’s most sought-after dessert wines, the Klein Constantia Vin de Constance. Once a favourite of Napoleon Bonaparte, who famously ordered it while exiled on St Helena, this wine is made from Muscat de Frontignan grapes and pairs beautifully with fine cheeses and delicate desserts.
Old vines, new flavours
Constantia is leading the charge in South Africa’s cool-climate winemaking revolution. Its proximity to the ocean means grapes ripen slowly, creating elegant, crisp sauvignon blancs and chardonnays with vibrant acidity. Constantia’s dry rosés – made from shiraz, merlot and cabernet sauvignon – are also a standout, offering bright berry flavours and refreshing minerality.
WHERE TO STAY
Palm House Boutique Hotel & Spa
Here’s a hotel every bit as beautiful as it first looks. In a part of Cape Town often overlooked by travellers – at least when it comes to choosing a home-base – Palm House Boutique Hotel & Spa is a boutique stay in Wynberg for history-steeped, wine-soused serenity. The pool and de Tafel restaurant are a destination in their own right, but a sleepover is the ultimate luxury. Just six kilometres from Constantia, this small exquisite property provides 10 rooms in the original building and five garden-view suites. You simply cannot beat the setting here – lush gardens, tinkling fountains and gently swaying palm trees against a backdrop of majestic mountains. It’s incredibly central, but you don’t feel it. This gloriously detailed – yet not at all overbearing – reimagining of a handsome 1920s mansion is the perfect destination for commemorating life’s milestones, celebrating anniversaries or simply escaping the hustle and bustle. Each of the rooms and suites are unique thanks to the rich colours, printed wallpaper and artworks that set the tone. Heavily textured fabrics give an opulent feel. In-room amenities are slightly above standard: Flat-screen TVs, Nespresso machines, free Wi-Fi, air conditioning plus mini-bar snacks. Marshmallow-soft beds and super-crisp sheets keep things cosy. In the bathrooms, there’s cool-white marble, black-metal taps and shower heads, rain showers and free-standing bathtubs. Amenities by Healing Earth come in refillable bottles with a grounding botanical fragrance. Breakfast and afternoon tea are taken in the emerald-green Palm Terrace, where classic continental options are served in a small seating area. Don’t miss the delicious eggs Florentine.
10 Oxford Street, Wynberg
021 745 5008
WHERE TO EAT
Tryn
Despite the whims of dining trends, Tryn, framed by an idyllic setting at Steenberg Farm, constantly delivers. Time after time, long lunch after long lunch. Even before you’re sat at your table, Tryn bedazzles with its jewel-toned fabrics, gold light fixtures, glossy bar and expansive deck. Add to that vistas of vines, and it beckons for lingering over a sun-splashed lunch. When it comes to what makes Tryn so special, it’s hard to know where to start. Perhaps at the end: Where Ivoire white chocolate cheesecake – celebrated for its smooth and sumptuous texture – comes topped with passionfruit namelaka, with a boost from salted coconut almond crumble, apricot ice cream and burnt vanilla meringue. It’s a perfect showcase of the unique pairings that define a meal here. Starters maintain the standard, notably kataifi-wrapped vannamei prawns – the contrasting textures of crisp kataifi pastry and creamy avocado united by pickled aubergine salsa, kumquat jam and basil emulsion, with lime providing pops of acid. There’s more finesse in pan-fried scallops with a bacon crumb on cauliflower purée, served with warm orange butter, pan-fried king oyster mushroom and confit garlic. In keeping with the modern menu, executive chef Kerry Kilpin’s mains are exciting, conceived and executed with flair. Umami-glazed, ethically-sourced fish bathed with lemongrass-ginger broth and dressed with green papaya kimchi, grilled baby cos leaves and coriander runs on good looks and clean flavours. Grilled beef fillet with black truffle jus, Gruberg and broccolini salsa, shallot and artichoke purée, and duck-fat roast potatoes raises the steak. From beginning to end it’s a thoughtful experience.
Steenberg Farm, Steenberg Road, Tokai
021 713 7178
Ember & Oak
Don’t judge a restaurant by its size. Ember & Oak doesn’t compromise on taste despite its compact space. It’s yet another hidden gem at Constantia Uitsig Wine Estate – and the price is right, too. While there’s plenty of ‘fun’ in the neon signs and quirky artworks, the interior remains simple, allowing the food and drinks to shine. The views from the outdoor tables, overspilling with pink roses, are lovely. Small plates are the name of the game by chef Tim Pick, formerly of Foxcroft and La Colombe. From hot honey wings to prawn puri, the selection of smaller and midsized dishes is a rollcall of international flavours and Asian influences. Attentive staff, led by Tim’s wife Judy, ensure there are no missteps. For a bite, the oysters served on an egg box entice with the most appetising ‘crack sauce’. A ceviche of linefish, watermelon, avocado, charred corn and herbs bursts with colour and energy, while carpaccio-style dirty steak overflows with guasacaca, ‘Mexican crunch’ and fun. To up the indulgence, we’re in favour of the pulled pork lollipops, which feature kimchi dressing and avocado. Although the menu changes seasonally, if given the chance, be sure to order some of Ember & Oak’s seafood dishes. Thin pieces of tuna tataki are laid over jalapeño dressing and teriyaki sauce with furikake and citrus salsa. A work of heart. Follow up with artfully plated crumbed Spanish octopus, joined in the bowl by chorizo, olives, capers, chilli romesco and lemon. It’s all good drinking food, with plenty of good things to drink. The wine list sparks joy, and so too do the Aperol Margie (you’d come back for it) and the Frozen Fizz Pop with cherry ale and MCC.
Constantia Uitsig Wine Estate, Spaanschemat River Road, Constantia
067 499 5621
Grub & Vine Norval
When the team behind popular CBD restaurant Grub & Vine saw prime Norval Foundation (a private art gallery-cum-museum and sculpture garden) real estate and a gap in the market, they went for it. And Grub & Vine Norval is the breath of fresh air the Constantia Wine Route needed, especially for relaxed dining dates full of flexibility. The bistro is open from Wednesday to Sunday and rocks a menu split in two – the standard à la carte and a seasonal tasting menu – that celebrates European grazing culture. We’re particularly enamoured of their new Sunday menu. The languidly paced lunch is perfect for those chasing more serene, yet no less exciting, vibes. A good Sunday lunch should have three things: Cosy corners, bistro fare that’s got finesse without the fuss and an excellent wine list – and luckily, Grub & Vine Norval has the hat trick. It’s a modern hygge heaven, with design details and glass walls that frame views of the surrounding gardens to match. Overseen by chef-director Matt Manning, the menu is confidently edited, offering two options: Canapés followed by two courses, or three. Everywhere you look, there’s texture and fresh angles to explore – from the braised leek and boerenkaas tart with onion purée, leek espuma and frizzled leeks adding an elevated edge, all the way through to a passion fruit soufflé for dessert. The beef wellington, perfectly pink swaddled in layers of buttery pastry, is a resounding hit. It’s served with celeriac fondants, braised celery hearts, charred apple, Yorkshire pudding and café au lait – possibly our favourite addition to the traditional fare. Finish with the sticky toffee pudding sprinkled with walnuts.
Norval Foundation, 4 Steenberg Road, Tokai
021 216 0021
