There might be a trend towards a simplified skincare routine, but not even the most impressive of results will have us parting ways with our face serums. Everything from salicylic acid to vitamin A derivatives like retinol can take your routine from basic to expert with just one extra step. With so many options available, it’s easy to become overwhelmed – however, it’s important to focus on what you’re actually trying to treat. The good news? We’ve tested serums for every skin type and concern. Whatever your skin drama, we’ve got a serum-based solution.
What is a face serum?
Put simply, face serums are ‘medicine’ for your skin. Designed to penetrate deeply into the skin, they’re lightweight but packed with powerful ingredients that hydrate, brighten and rejuvenate. Serums can also target specific concerns like hyperpigmentation and acne, improving overall radiance and skin texture. A little goes a long way: A serum’s concentrated formula can make the skin look and feel better with just a small amount. It’s usually applied before moisturiser that also acts as a shield to lock in the serum’s potent ingredients. You’ll find certain serums, such as retinol, work best whilst you’re sleeping, and others, including vitamin C, are ideally applied first thing in the morning. Daytime skincare focuses on protection from inflammation and oxidation with anti-pollution, UV protection and hyaluronic acid. At night, active ingredients like peptides and niacinamide are key to supporting the skin’s natural repair while you catch some Z’s. After applying your serum, layer on your moisturiser and then facial sunscreen year-round. In the evening, finish with a cracking good night cream. If you’re treating yourself to an at-home facial with exfoliating masks or similar treatments, follow up with a hydrating or soothing serum to calm the skin.
Ingredients to look for in face serums
- Vitamin C: An antioxidant that helps to neutralise the negative impact of free oxygen radicals on skin cells.
- Hyaluronic acid: A humectant that attracts and retains moisture, improving skin plumpness and minimising fine lines.
- Niacinamide: Calms irritation, addresses uneven skin tone and is a vital part of the B vitamin complex.
- Retinol: Regulates skin cell turnover to reduce blocked pores and acne while boosting collagen production to smooth fine lines and wrinkles.
- Peptides: The building blocks of proteins that signal skin to produce structural proteins like collagen and elastin, enhancing firmness and rigidity.
- Squalane: Similar to the skin’s natural sebum, it’s a well-tolerated emollient and moisturiser that keeps skin smooth, soft and hydrated.
- AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids): Gentle exfoliants like lactic and glycolic acid that help shed dead skin cells to reveal brighter, healthier skin.
- BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids): Oil-soluble exfoliants like salicylic acid that penetrate pores to effectively treat acne-prone skin.
- Growth factors: Stimulate cellular activity and tissue repair using ingredients such as EGF (epidermal growth factor), FGF (fibroblast growth factor) and TGF-beta (transforming growth factor-beta) to combat signs of ageing.
Editor’s pick: Best for tackling signs of ageing
Who it’s for: Mature skin, various retinol tolerances
Benefits: Firms, reduces blemishes, evens out texture, smooths fine lines and wrinkles
Why we love it: Of all the face serums available to us, retinol is perhaps the most transformative. One of the main forms of vitamin A, retinol – a type of retinoid – works by stimulating cell turnover in the skin, meaning new, fresh skin cells make their way to your skin surface faster than they would naturally. This action has a host of aesthetic benefits. From a skincare perspective, retinoids act at a deep cellular level, promoting collagen and elastin production, reducing cellular ageing and pore congestion, and helping to regulate sebum production. The cellular regeneration triggered by retinol can lead to broad benefits for various skin types and concerns. Many have found it effective in reducing roughness, hyperpigmentation and wrinkles linked to photoageing (or sun damage). Retinol also shows potential in treating acne-prone skin, with studies indicating that the retinoid family can help reduce active breakouts and prevent new ones from forming. It may also significantly improve skin texture, including scarring and pigmentation. Vitamin A cannot be produced by the body, so it must be obtained through our diet and applied topically to our skin via skincare products.
Environ’s new retinol serums are perhaps the brand’s most accomplished products yet. Founder Dr Des Fernandes carried out extensive research into the retinol “sweet spot” (impressive results meets minimal irritation). Containing pure retinol, these modern formulas make an effort to protect skin rather than strip it. Beginners should start with the Environ Tri-Retinoid Complex Retinol Serum. It’s designed specifically with beginners in mind and contains a relatively low concentration of retinol, which gradually works its magic on your skin while you sleep. Toss in two additional retinoid derivatives, along with powerful antioxidants and skin-strengthening ingredients, and you’ve got yourself a gold-standard formula. Refined skin without compromising its protective barrier. Win-win. We raved about how much this product improved the look and feel of our skin. After experiencing some light peeling initially, all the formerly dull and rough patches of our face appeared even and smooth. Plus, we noticed a general boost in brightness and radiance. The gel-like consistency makes it easy to spread a pea-sized amount over your face and neck, paying special attention to areas where fine lines form. But, as we always say, start slow – once a week, then twice a week, then build up to every other day.
Work your way up through Environ’s retinol ladder and you’ll find the Environ Tri-Retinoid Complex Retinol Serum Forte. It’s formulated with a pretty high dose of retinoid complex to reduce the four signs of ageing – wrinkles, pore size, texture and tone – once you’ve acclimated. The addition of phyto-retinol boosters Revinage and NovoRetin ensures your skin barrier is healthy and thriving. It’s a sound investment for all kinds of skin concerns from addressing wrinkles to clearing blemishes. If your expression lines are becoming more prominently etched on your face, this potent formula can help soften them. Whilst it can be used by all ages (collagen starts to decline and deplete around the age of 25), we think that people over 35+ will really see the benefit. Since it’s a treatment, retinol works best when applied to clean skin. We advise against layering it with other actives like vitamin C or glycolic acid, as that could leave your skin more sensitive. Then, in the morning, cleanse your face and complete your routine with sunscreen. While this should be a given whatever you use, it’s especially critical with vitamin-A products, as skin is more sensitive to UV rays when using retinol.
R960 and R1,200 for 30ml respectively from select salons
Best for brightening
Who it’s for: Dry, normal, combination, sensitive
Benefits: Illuminates, improves the appearance of dark spots, fights against free radical damage
Why we love it: You’ve likely noticed vitamin C serums are mainstays in the vanities of skincare enthusiasts – or really, anyone with radiant skin. But why? Like a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice for your complexion, vitamin C has specific benefits for the skin due to its photoprotective, antioxidative, anti-pigmentary and overall anti-ageing effects. It can encourage collagen and elastin production while protecting against collagen damage in the skin’s dermis. Vitamin C is also a staple in brightening products, as it inhibits melanin production – the source of skin discolouration, dark spots and hyperpigmentation. The popular Lamelle Correctives Vita-C Lipid Serum is a winning formulation for brightening the canvas in just a few weeks. It has a wonderful silky texture and a citrus scent. Through 20% stabilised vitamin C and a slew of antioxidants, this elixir protects against free radicals and dramatically lightens dark spots caused by sun damage. Over time, it can help prevent dark spots from forming in the first place. For added cushioning, this serum is also combined with squalane, jojoba oil and ginger root extract to replenish moisture. The result is glowing skin that’s hydrated and blemish-free.
R,1050 from Dermastore, Cosmetology and SkinMiles
Best for hydrating
Who it’s for: All skin types
Benefits: Hydrates, plumps, refines the skin
Why we love it: The hype surrounding niacinamide – a form of vitamin B3 – isn’t, well, all hype. The skincare industry’s current darling is suitable for pretty much every skin type, and its benefits are easily reaped. This wonder vitamin has brightening, oil-curbing and redness-calming properties – just to name a few. What’s more, it works to fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation and blotchiness by inhibiting the transfer of pigment to the skin’s surface. The new Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 Serum can help quench the skin’s thirst, plumping up fine lines and giving skin a healthy-looking glow in the process. Niacinamide is great on its own, but when you pair it with hyaluronic acid, you’ve got a serious power-couple situation. Niacinamide softens the skin and evens texture, while hyaluronic acid imparts that dewy, well-rested glow – even if you have desert-dry skin. The cherry on top? It’s also infused with Avène Thermal Spring Water, which nourishes with antioxidants. We love that the formula has a weightless water-gel texture that sinks in on the spot, so you won’t be left with any residue. Crucially, it doesn’t pill under foundation either. It’s mild enough to use twice a day for even more noticeable results.
R790 from Dermastore, Care to Beauty, Absolute Skin and Dis-Chem
Best for exfoliating
Who it’s for: Normal, combination, oily
Benefits: Prevents breakouts, reduces shine, tightens pores
Why we love it: Acids are a skincare ingredient often used for exfoliation. There are two main groups of acids: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). AHAs are water-soluble and target the skin’s surface, helping with fine lines, texture and dullness. BHAs, in contrast, penetrate deep into clogged pores, effectively treating and preventing acne. Dull, dry and discoloured complexions can benefit from the Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Daily Re-Texturising Triple Acid Peel to gently revive skin when the elements are against it. This pre-serum contains a triple threat of salicylic, glycolic and lactic acids, so you can skip the Paris filter (or not). It smooths texture, clears out acne-causing congestion in pores and reduces that oily shine you used to need powder to cover up. Salicylic acid is a popular choice for minimising breakouts. Glycolic acid, derived from sugar, is one of the most commonly used acids in skincare. Lactic acid, the second smallest molecule, is gentler than glycolic acid and also acts as a hydrating agent by drawing moisture to the skin. Just dispense a few drops onto a cotton pad and then gently swipe it across your face, moving down from your hairline to your décolletage.
R850 from Edgars, Dermastore and Superbalist
Best for sensitive skin
Who it’s for: Sensitive, dry, normal
Benefits: Deeply comforting, anti-inflammatory, protects against environmental aggressors
Why we love it: Vitamin E is by no means a novelty. Do you remember being little and being fascinated by those golden-coloured vitamin E capsules your mom always kept on the counter? We do, too. Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant that scavenges free radicals to protect skin against oxidative damage. The prime benefit of vitamin E is the capability to accelerate healing of skin damage, including burns and wounds. It’s also highly moisturising, skin-nourishing and can help calm inflammation. When our skin is acting up, it’s in the Institut Esthederm Intensive Vitamin E² Serum we trust. This gentle serum is one of the speediest saviours you can reach for when irritation strikes – one-stop shop for healing, restoring and protecting dry, sensitive skin. It instantly smooths and soothes thanks to its namesake vitamin E complex, which is clinically proven to lock in moisture for rough, dry skin. Meanwhile, the formula boasts Institut Esthederm’s Cellular Water to both revitalise the skin’s barrier and shield it from external stressors. If reactions are an issue, strengthening the delicate barrier is the goal – because a better barrier means healthier, more resilient skin. This is truly one of our desert island products.
R1,99 from Cosmetology, SkinMiles and Retail Box
Best all-rounder
Who it’s for: All skin types
Benefits: Soothes, repairs, protects the skin barrier
Why we love it: Vitamin C serums are amazing for fading dark spots, while vitamin A serums are famous for their wrinkle-softening abilities. Meanwhile, peptide serums are perfect for those who are looking to smooth over fine lines. They’ve long been regarded as a non-invasive, topical method to achieve results similar to injectables. Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are naturally occurring in the body, but within peptide serums, can be combined to do the absolute most for your skin. When applied on the skin, they can increase the production of proteins such as collagen, elastin and fibronectin, supporting skin health and addressing common signs of ageing. Finding a hardworking serum when you have sensitive skin is a dangerous game. But the Biomedical Emporium Forté? It checks all the boxes. This fragrance-free formula has a light, fast-absorbing texture and utilises peptides as well as hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and ceramides. What sets this product apart, in our opinion, is its ability to make your skin smoother and more elastic, soothe and correct skin discolouration and redness, and improve overall skin health. A versatile choice for post-procedure care and daily use.
R441 from Biomedical Emporium, Cosmetology and SkinMiles
