If the impending chilly season triggers your flight instinct, consider a getaway to the Tanzanian archipelago of Zanzibar. Also known as the Spice Islands, Zanzibar is a place of contrasts: Its bustling capital, Stone Town, alive with historic landmarks, labyrinthine streets and air that’s thick with the heady scent of spices, and its coast dotted with sleepy fishing villages along white coral sand beaches and the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. Here, on a secluded 1.5-hectare property edging Unguja Island, Chuini Zanzibar Lodge is a sweet retreat for a much-needed hit of vitamin D.
The best time to visit Zanzibar
The dry season from June to October is the most pleasant time to visit, with temperatures averaging 25°C and minimal rainfall. This period also coincides with Tanzania’s safari high season, making Zanzibar a popular post-safari destination. In contrast, the long rains in April and May bring heavy downpours (up to 401mm), leading to seasonal closures and a slower pace of life. While the rains ease the humidity left from the hot East African summer, they make travel less ideal.
Location
Location, location, location – that’s the appeal of Chuini Zanzibar Lodge. Zanzibar is a frantic destination that requires repeat visits to appreciate and understand its restless rhythm. Landing at Abeid Amani Karume International Airport can feel a bit hectic, and the drive through the crowded streets, past crumbling architecture and honking dala-dalas, can make you question – if you’re arriving from congested urban streets – if you’ve just traded one form of traffic for another. But once you enter the grounds of Chuini Zanzibar Lodge, it’s a different story. Chuini Zanzibar Lodge is situated in a peaceful location on the west coast, 12km north of Stone Town. From the airport, visitors take a 30-minute drive to reach the lodge. Compared to other luxe hotels on the island – many of which can be a 90-minute drive away in heavy traffic – this alone could be a reason to stay. It does mean that you’re further from some of the island’s most popular beaches, such as Nungwi Beach and Paje Beach. However, with a setting such as this, off the beaten track and away from the crowds, many check in and simply stay put. The lodge’s grand wooden doors open in a wide welcome of true Swahili tradition. Its local architecture style boasts the ancient ruins of Chuini Palace, built for the Zanzibar Sultan, Sayyid Bargash, in 1873. Chuini Zanzibar Lodge is blessed with an abundance of lush greenery and natural shade, including tall coconut palms and hibiscus trees with their beautiful cup-shaped bright red flowers. The air is perfumed with frangipani. Look closely, and you may spot a greyish green Zanzibar day gecko or two – the lucky amphibians that have one of the plushest homes around.
The rooms
The 13 thatched rooms and one villa are all standalone bungalows cooled by ceiling fans and air-conditioners. The Deluxe Sea View Rooms, where we stayed, exude beachy minimalism and are just steps away from an idyllic, sunset-facing beach. There’s a sliver of an ocean view, but we didn’t need more than that. A level above, the Superior Rooms and Junior Suites are designed with privacy in mind. In the two-bedroom Villa with dramatic cliffside views, guests can expect even more space. Entry-level Deluxe Garden View Rooms also have a generous balcony. Regardless of the accommodation type, the interiors manage to feel spacious, stylish and right for the setting. And nothing adds a sense of place quite like the salty ocean breeze that ensues. Pale woods, hanging lights, natural woven-grass rugs and cool cement floors decorate the whitewashed rooms and private terraces (the perfect spot to have your morning coffee). Mosquito nets add a hint of airy romance, but make sure to slather yourself in as much repellent as possible and bring anti-itch cream for the inevitable bites. Considering this is a Newmark Hotels & Reserves property, understated luxury and premium amenities like tea and coffee-making facilities, a small fridge, international plugs, an electronic safe, bathrobes and slippers, coconut and lime shower goodies as well as amenity kits are a given. It’s no surprise, then, that Chuini Zanzibar Lodge is attracting a younger, cooler breed of sun-worshipper. Saturated with screen time, many of us are looking for ways to disconnect. Wi-Fi is free, though it can be spotty in some rooms (a good thing). It’s more reliable in the common areas (also a good thing).
Food and drink
On the food front, Chuini Zanzibar Lodge has a reputation for delicious interpretations of local cuisine. The lodge offers flexible meal plans, including bed and breakfast, half-board and full-board. We recommend opting for the half-board option, which covers both breakfast and dinner. Due to the lodge’s secluded location, there are no restaurants nearby. However, this isn’t an issue – the à la carte menu is varied, and hospitality standards are high. You really don’t ever have to leave the property. The real star of a stay here is dining in an open-air dining room called Sea Breeze Restaurant & Bar, the main place to eat overlooking a private beach. Breakfast is a treat, especially the freshly squeezed ginger shots, tropical fruits and eggs benedict pancakes. During the day – and on warm nights – tables are set outside, within eyeline of white dhows on a blue ocean and earshot of lapping waves. The emphasis is on fresh seafood and produce, both of which are caught and grown on the island itself, while the wine list features some of South Africa’s finest wines. Popular dishes include tuna tartare, harissa fish tacos, seafood tagliatelle, octopus risotto, and a plate of fish and seafood tempura served with green papaya salad that we’re still thinking about. The dreamy courtyard, dripping with magenta bougainvillea and filled with birdsong, is a very lovely spot for a pre-dinner passionfruit paloma. Breakfast is served in-room for when you want to lie low the morning after sampling the bartender’s magic. For dinner, order the seafood platter – a highlight of our stay – to feast on all-local lobster, jumbo prawns, octopus and calamari paired with lime butter, hand-cut chips and garden vegetables.
Activities and experiences
At Chuini Zanzibar Lodge, some of the greatest pleasures are the simplest ones. Waking up at dawn and strolling along an empty beach; lounging alongside the infinity pool as the dhows drift by; watching local fisherman hauling up daily catches; soaking in the knee-trembling sunset views. And this is really the essence of what makes it so wonderful. While the beach at Chuini Zanzibar Lodge isn’t ideal for swimming due to its rocky and coral-strewn shoreline, guests can cool off in the lodge’s two outdoor pools. What it lacks in swim-friendly waters, it makes up for in character – fishing boats in vibrant, contrasting colours rest on the sand, creating a truly authentic African coastal scene. The Asili Spa (asili translates to ‘nature’ in Swahili), though modest in size, offers a rich array of experiences. Try the signature Hakuna Matata package – a full-body exfoliation, followed by a Healing Earth coffee, cinnamon and orange body wrap. The experience is then completed with an energising full-body massage. For those eager to venture out, Chuini Zanzibar Lodge arranges excursions that span snorkelling, scuba diving, big game fishing and sunset cruises aboard a luxury catamaran. Low-key and casual, the staff are some of the warmest, loveliest people we’ve met lately. Chuini Zanzibar Lodge’s location also means guests enjoy the best of both worlds: Scenic ocean views and easy access to Stone Town, a UNESCO-listed historic capital. On the beach, you’ll likely come across locals who provide guided tours. The winding streets are chock-full of history, so you’d benefit from a tour guide. A week or so here, and you may even be ready to deal with the dropping temperature back home.
Book it
Chuini Palace Ruins, Bububu, Zanzibar, Tanzania
021 427 5901
