So what if temperatures are plummeting? Your dining adventures are heating up with new restaurants and winter menus to make the most of the cool weather. Think roaring fireplaces, rich decoration, heart-warming food and timely wine refills. No matter what you’re craving – from fine dining to fusion cuisines – Cape Town’s vast gastronomic landscape is bound to tickle your taste buds in new and unexpected ways. We’ve rounded up our edit of the hottest tables to satiate your appetite for new eats. All that’s left to do is reserve your table, stat.
Dusk Restaurant
Best for: The most theatrical supper in Stellenbosch
Local ingredients are in the spotlight at this new Stellenbosch address for special occasions and celebratory splurges. The intimate 30-seater, led by chefs Darren Badenhorst and Callan Austin, is a small but perfectly formed place that’s not to be missed. Specialising in fine dining, the moodily-lit Dusk Restaurant – decked with white tablecloths and gleaming glassware – struts its stuff for well-heeled diners with inquisitive palates. The kitchen produces modern cooking in the haute-cuisine league across its 11-course tasting menu (R1,690 per person) and six-course winter special menu (R895 per person). Intriguing flavour combos such as “snails and their roe” just beg to be tried, while desserts lean more experimental, much to the delight of anyone dining here. When you consider who’s behind all this, it’s no surprise. Chef Darren is a genius when it comes to making ingredients sing and creating harmonious marriages. Dusk Restaurant embraces the theatre of fine dining – buckle up for an umami-heavy “little corn bite” with a sprinkle of popcorn dust and Purdon Wagyu tartare served with pomegranate relish and an “Egg McMuffin”. The thrills continue with a “wash your mouth out with soap” palate cleanser; smoked and dry-aged duck breast that’s given a sophisticated spin with seasonal leaves and truffle; and butternut gâteaux that belies its humble origins with lacto-fermented plum and mascarpone. Moreover, the bitter coffee and dark chocolate crème with roasted chestnut crémeux, hazelnut shortbread and vanilla ice cream is unusually nuanced. Staff are some of the most professional in the business, with a sommelier on hand to suggest champagne aperitifs and advise which wine pairing to choose. Be warned – you’ll have to book well in advance.
43 Plein Street, Stellenbosch
021 023 4100
Protégé
Best for: Meticulously presented high-end food served in a cosy atmosphere
A winter lunch special for R595 per person? Yes please – and not a starched tablecloth in sight. Instead, the upscale-casual Protégé is all about precision-tuned contemporary flavours, serving a cutting-edge lineup of four courses. Quite simply, it’s one of the best-value tasting menus in town. Cosy up amid the grey marble, light woods and pale green accents with a bottle from the Franschhoek-inspired wine list. The crackling fireplace adds a touch of cosiness during a cold winter’s day. This is quiet finesse in a genuinely buzzy space, and wherever you sit, you’ll feel like part of the action. Singles can comfortably find a spot at the counter and enjoy a meal on their own. The modernity of the atmosphere is reflected in the new winter menu – head chef Zane Soutar’s takes on flavour are mirrored in dishes such as the delicately crisp spiced squid garnished with herbs and edible flowers, or the crowd-pleasing lamb chops served with smoked tomatoes and salsa verde. We started with the beef tataki hors d’oeuvre and garlicky marinated olives before taste-testing our way through the bread course. Tear off pieces of thick, rustic toasted sourdough before spreading some butter with wild garlic oil and adding paper-thin sliced biltong on top. The simplest yet most delicious way to start that gets better with each bite. On our visit, we were particularly blown away by the immaculately crafted seared tuna with miso-glazed aubergine and ssamjang as well as the Purdon Wagyu sirloin with porcini mushroom sauce and smoked pomme purée. It’s prepared in just the right way to bring out its inherent flavour. And don’t ignore the side-menu items such as the spiced edamame and Asian-style oysters. For those into baked camembert, Protégé’s garlic truffle version is the platonic ideal.
Le Quartier Français, 18 Huguenot Street, Franschhoek
021 492 4048
Upper Union Restaurant
Best for: Truly flavour-packed small plates complete with creative cocktails
Ultra-modern, technically excellent sharing plates are the lure at this swanky new restaurant next door to Cape Cadogan Boutique Hotel. One step into its space, one drink from its cellar and one bite of its menu, we were hooked on MORE Family Collection and chef Amori Burger’s latest project. Upper Union Restaurant is the perfect example of a restaurant that lets the ingredients speak for themselves – from the blackened beetroot and green falafel right down to the yellowtail crudo and hearty rib-eye steak. The beautiful interior here is a definite plus to boot. If you’re yet to see the reimagined heritage building with Victorian-inspired stained-glass windows in person, you’ve likely seen it on Instagram. A jazzy soundtrack hums gently over a palette of emerald green, black and white with textures of oak, marble, slate and brass. During the day, the restaurant is bathed in natural light, while at night the mood shifts to sultry. We like Upper Union Restaurant even more for dreaming up the best outdoor dining spot imaginable. No matter the choice off the menu, every morsel is treated with an expert hand. Highlights include the fig and red onion bhaji fried to crispy perfection, served alongside tamarind chutney and raita; the creamy burrata cheese and prosciutto that’s ideal for dipping the seeded flatbread into; and the most tender, fall-apart lamb made with baharat sauce, rose and curry leaf. Dishes get even tastier as you move down the menu. Dig into the Southern-fried chicken piled up with a garnish of mango, or the vodka tempura kingklip that’s given a cleverly light and fresh touch with green apple. Be sure to order one of the cocktails here, too – either to start while getting stuck into the bread, or to end. The espresso martini with Absolut Vanilia Vodka hits the sweet spot.
3 Upper Union Street, Gardens
021 891 0360
Foxcroft
Best for: Consistent cooking paired with a dark and moody dining room
Sharp lines, acute shadows and modernist fixtures set the aesthetic tone for Foxcroft. The space is industrial-chic, showcasing exposed ceilings, concrete flooring and black wall paint to create a moody vibe. The honey glow of the central fireplace will invite you in as you take refuge from a rainy evening. While simple in the atmosphere, the food certainly feels extravagant in flavour. All eyes are on the exquisitely prepared eight-course tasting menu (R895 per person for lunch or R995 for dinner) whipped up by head chef Glen ‘Foxcroft’ Williams. All the plates pack a splendid punch. Standout dishes include chunks of market fish in a spicy pool of consommé with green herbs, marinated tomatoes, capers and crème fraîche; an extravaganza of aged beef tartare with kosher pickles, green peppercorns, beef fat and thyme; dry red curry of pork whose silkiness contrasts perfectly with the earthiness of cauliflower, kohlrabi and ginger; and luscious Valrhona Chocolate Tanariva 33% crémeux with pickled cherries, pistachio and cherry stracciatella ice cream. In sync with chef Glen’s holistic spirit, everything on your arty ceramic plate is uber-fresh. The confit duck is tender, practically melting in the mouth. It’s uniquely accented with beetroot, fermented plums, black garlic and cabbage. For the cheese course – goat cheesecake – goat cheese adds a tangy, salty touch and a wonderfully complex flavour, while guava, lemon and thyme add a freshness that offsets the richness. Portions, including the opening ‘Foxcroft bread’, are extremely generous. After dinner, linger over petit fours while enjoying your espresso. Foxcroft gets full points from us for the creative attention with which their tasty plates are pulled together. Plus, the wine matching makes it worth a special trip.
Shop 8, High Constantia Centre, Groot Constantia Road, Constantia
021 202 3304
