Summer has arrived, bringing with it the dream of idyllic days spent near Cape Town. Just beyond the city’s edge, the Winelands beckon – with cool cellars, crisp wines, seasonal menus and the kind of easy luxury that defines a Cape summer. Maybe you’re after a few nights at a reimagined boutique hotel that feels rooted in the land but made for modern indulgence. Perhaps it’s a long lunch under the oaks at one of the region’s new restaurants, or a cellar tasting where summer releases are pouring fast. We’ve got picks for all of those, in case you’re wondering.
Spier Hotel
Is it a farm? A garden? A spa hotel? It’s all of the above. Spier Wine Farm has long drawn day-trippers to its 620-hectare sun-kissed swathe of land behind the Eerste River in Stellenbosch. Home to everything from edible gardens and oak-shaded picnicking lawns to delectable farm-to-table dining, a destination spa and immersive art events, the options to spend your time are near-endless. If that’s not enough, the 80-room hotel’s thorough re-envisioning makes it one of, if not the, ultimate boutique retreat in the Cape Winelands right now. Spier’s five-star accommodation and rural location is an enriching combination. With its beginnings tracing back to 1692, the farm’s early history is felt in the ancient oaks, Cape Dutch heritage buildings and original estate wine cellar. Romantic enough for couples (you’ll see your share of honeymooners deep in conversation over a glass of wine) but also exceptionally family-friendly, this eco-minded hotel is the epitome of a sustainable-luxury stay. Spier Hotel offers three categories of accommodation, clustered in a village-style layout: Luxury Rooms, Luxury Suites and Private Villas. Awash with herbaceous-referencing greens, golds and burnt orange, the aesthetic mixes farmhouse chic with functional modernity – delivering contemporary clean lines, touches of wicker and rattan, striped fabrics, ruched curtains, botanical embroidered linen cushions and African Jacquard bed throws. Rooms are all impressively spacious. So, too, are the vast marble bathrooms with double vanities and mini posies of lavender on shelves. If you can, book a ground-floor Luxury Suite; they’re double the size of the rooms and include a farm-style kitchenette. One of the best amenities is the porch, where you can relax with a drink and take in views of the riverine vegetation as dusk settles and the insects begin to whirr. The award-winning Spier wine range is huge, and very good – sample it at the tasting room with cheese, chocolate or charcuterie pairings, or book a Segway vineyard tour. Food-wise, everything is seasonal and substantial. Beef, pork and eggs are supplied by Farmer Angus (Spier’s regenerative livestock farmer), with vegetables and herbs from the Food Garden, breads and pastries from Vadas Smokehouse & Bakery, and fish sourced through Abalobi. The hotel features two main dining spaces. The glass-walled Garden Room – opening onto a 20-metre pool surrounded by sun loungers, frilly umbrellas and plenty of bright-green foliage – serves breakfast and lunch. A culinary highlight of any stay is the expansive harvest table served each morning. Dinner takes place in Veld – the high-ceiling room is dressed with stunning artworks and hanging plants. Ensure that you’re organised enough to reserve a table well in advance. On the menu are wholesome dishes like mushrooms on toast, chef’s steak of the day with hand-cut chips and wild leafy greens, and Cape Malay koe’sisters with cardamom-spiced custard and a tameletjie (a soft caramel sweet). It’s rare to find a hotel that allows guests to feel so connected to the land they’re on. No wonder they fall in love from their very first visit.
Spier Wine Farm, R310 Baden Powell Drive, Stellenbosch
021 809 1100
TERRA
We love a glossy opening as much as the next person, but nothing makes our hearts flutter like a new neighbourhood restaurant. TERRA is the latest venture by chef Matt Van Den Berg and restaurateur Marais Kirsten-Uys, located in a sweet spot on Dorp Street. It’s an unpretentious space that you can relax in straight away – and the staff know their stuff. TERRA is buzzing but intimate: Inside, it’s all dark woods, leather booths, white tablecloths and earthy colours, low-lit by lamps. Burgundy striped cushions and terra cotta tiles give the attractive outdoor area some colour. The feel-good playlist is suited perfectly to long summer days and balmy nights. Bright and airy during the day, the atmosphere is cosier with a local feel come nightfall. On any given evening, you’ll find people spilling onto the sidewalk, glasses of wine in hand. While perusing the menu, make sure you try one of the delicious cocktails – there’s a tempting selection, including the Cape Chamomile Martini that infuses the floral, apple-like notes of the indigenous shrub into a classic martini. Book an Uber home. As for the food, head chef Jarryd Morris and the team whip up cheeky, fusion-y flavor bombs. Start with some nibbles – we recommend the prawn toast dressed up with kimchi Marie Rose sauce and chives; the tuna tostada topped with sashimi-grade fish, chipotle and yuzu guacamole; and a bold take on pani puri with tomato, lime crema and curry leaf. The lighter dishes often outshine their larger counterparts: The viral tuna crudo invites diners to pour in tequila and sip the leftover pineapple-and-jalapeño dressing straight from the bowl, while wagyu tataki with smoky tomatoes is delicate without being timid. The lemony crayfish orzo has to be experienced – the sweet, succulent flesh of this crustacean is a treat. The deep, dark, satisfying wagyu bistro filet in a pool of sauce Lyonnaise is also unforgettable; it’s a tough call. Breakfast and brunch look equally indulgent – we’ll be back for the eggs Benedict options. This all-day eatery is possibly the hottest restaurant in Stellenbosch right now.
107 Dorp Street, Stellenbosch
076 644 8448
reservations@terrarestaurant.co.za
QUARTZ at Quoin Rock
In big news for fans of Quoin Rock, the designer winery has opened a new restaurant that offers a more approachable take on fine dining. QUARTZ may feel familiar to those who frequent Quoin Rock, since it was previously the estate’s tasting lounge. The modern dining room is simply stylish, with bare wooden tables, high ceilings, molecular-style chandeliers, interesting art and pots of greenery in every corner. A diverse range of estate wines and the panorama of rolling, vineyard-covered hills offer further excuses to linger a while longer. It’s worth booking early to try to secure one of the seats near the windows. Now for the food. Head chef Edmund Viljoen, whose craft was sharpened at the acclaimed three-Michelin-starred restaurant The Fat Duck, delivers Euro-centric cooking that’s masterful in an entirely unflashy way. Whether he’s explaining dishes in detail or walking guests through the drinks list, his elegant hospitality turns visits into experiences. The newer culinary iteration has a more accessible menu, simply made up of dishes that Viljoen himself wants to cook and eat; a simple concept, but it’s clear that leading with passion can only be a positive thing. When deciding between the three- or four-course options (R750 and R980, respectively), choose four. There’s truly something for everyone. Almost like a savoury version of peaches and cream, a peach burrata salad balances stone fruit sweetness with creamy burrata. A char-grilled tiger prawn is well matched with avocado purée, burnt leeks, sweet and sour sauce and coriander. Dishes may appear restrained, but gripping complexities gradually come to light. A standout plate sees lamb ribs, meltingly tender, their richness offset by spring greens, pickled onions, apricot purée and chive jus. Lastly, it won’t take more than a glass of red to convince you to order the dark chocolate namelaka – a rich, velvety dessert served with hazelnut ice cream and Kahlúa espresso. Expect a well-heeled crowd, impeccable service and a dining experience that feels both polished and personal.
Quoin Rock Wine Estate, Knorhoek Road, Stellenbosch
021 888 4750
The Winery Building at Delaire Graff Estate
The hallmark of world-class luxury is feeling completely at home in a location that couldn’t be further removed from everyday life. The 100-acre Delaire Graff Estate, known for its ultra-modern winery, two restaurants along with private suites and villas in the breathtaking Banhoek Valley, understand this truth profoundly; in fact, they’ve got it down to a fine art (excuse the pun). After a complete makeover of its iconic Winery Building – which houses Delaire Graff Restaurant, the Wine Lounge, Lorenzo’s Cucina Italiana, the smallest Graff store in the world and the 100% Capri boutique – Delaire Graff Estate is entering a new era. And it’s as extravagant as you’d expect from British diamond mogul, Laurence Graff OBE. Come for some of the most prestigious wines in the southern hemisphere, but stay for the top-tier dining and sophisticated surroundings by David Collins Studio. Lashings of dark-stained woods are polished to perfection, richly-patterned marble gleams and a phenomenal art collection distracts and bedazzles. Delaire Graff Restaurant – an indoor–outdoor space shaded by mature trees – is the crown jewel. Earthy, moody colours and natural materials let the orange leather serpentine banquettes, elaborate panelling and African art do most of the talking. Then there’s the magnificent scenery – from every seated angle, the mountains and valley stretch out in front of you. You come here to be amidst beauty and a permanent sense of occasion. Affable, knowledgeable staff deliver the imaginative and beautifully presented dishes made from high-quality, locally sourced seasonal ingredients. South African flavours on the menu include the freshest of West Coast oysters served with mignonette; rolled Karoo lamb belly with zucchini, goat’s cheese, almonds, fermented lemon and umsobo (African berry) jus; coriander venison loin with chestnuts, king oyster and shiitake mushrooms, pears and Pernod jus; and opulent East Coast crayfish, artfully arranged on a white plate with bright green swirls, sweetcorn, leeks, jalapeño, salty fingers, sorghum and bisque. Pair each course with the head sommelier’s wine recommendations (especially the Delaire Graff Sunrise MCC NV, named after a hefty yellow diamond, and the pale pink Cabernet Franc Rosé), or go your own way with a choice from the extensive list. There’s no escaping a food coma after a meal here. Still, we implore you to dig deep and find space for dessert – the rooibos milk tart topped off with fynbos honey, white chocolate, cinnamon, candied citrus and granola is an utter delight. Finally, head to the Wine Lounge where you’ll explore the estate’s zesty, bright whites and bold, age-worthy reds. The decor here embodies all the finesse of a well-done remix: Hints of purple amethyst from the furniture meet creams and dark woods. Doors open out onto a dappled terrace overlooking the striped vines. There’s a consistent buzz of excitement in the air with comings and goings, and friends reuniting from all over the globe. Quite simply, this is the most exclusive working farm in the Cape Winelands. Book in advance during peak summer season to avoid disappointment.
Delaire Graff Estate, Helshoogte Pass, Stellenbosch
021 885 8160
Neil Ellis Wines Restaurant
A great wine tasting should excite and educate. Occupying a striking building on the Helshoogte Pass, the recently renovated Neil Ellis Wines is one of those places you wish someone had let you in on sooner. You spend long, lazy hours sampling wines with genuine ageing ability, made just metres from where you’re sitting. Immersive tastings are the game here, and the team take it very seriously. How does this translate? A hands-on and enthusiastic interaction with every pour. Guests reserve their tasting in advance, so you can be sure that everyone here has done their research – you’ll be in good company. If you’re looking for a bite, kick back in the all-new Neil Ellis Wines Restaurant and soak up the sprawling lush green lawns. Contemporary and sleek, this cellar-door restaurant has plenty of style – think a black and burgundy palette, wood-panelled walls, cool pendant lights and glass sliding doors that open onto a wooden deck. It’s comfortable and relaxed, the atmosphere assisted by a soundtrack. On entry you’ll see the open-fire grill and pizza oven, manned by head chef Dennis Strydom (formerly of Rickety Bridge) and his team who are busy sizzling steaks and bubbling flatbreads. The short menu is arranged into flatbreads, mains, sides, salads, cheese and charcuterie, and desserts. Word of advice? Come hungry. We began with the delicious mozzarella flatbread. Who could resist the milky, melt-in-the-mouth texture of buffalo mozzarella paired with blistered cherry tomatoes, grilled sweet peppers, slivers of zucchini and lemon herb dressing? The flame-licked beef sirloin with Asian sesame dressing and beef-fat fried potatoes, together with the perfectly pink seared tuna with sauce vierge and feather-light pommes dauphine, are two well-balanced and flavourful dishes. As are the lime ice cream on a bed of white chocolate crumble and the Christmas pudding rich with dark fruit. When you can drag your attention from the food – and the wine – the views of the vine-clad valley make a charming backdrop. Neil Ellis Wines Restaurant is a best-kept secret (for now).
Neil Ellis Wines, Helshoogte Pass, Stellenbosch
021 887 0649
SALT at Waterford Estate
The trickle of a courtyard fountain, a breeze that shoulders its way through stone arches: Waterford Estate is an unquestionably sensory experience. You’re only a 15-minute drive from central Stellenbosch, but it feels like another realm. Its tree-lined gravel driveway, olive groves, ivy-clad sandstone building and terracotta pots evoke Italy. If it weren’t for the peaks of the Helderberg Mountain in the distance, it could be a vineyard in Tuscany. Waterford Estate is known locally as the dreamiest wine destination – understandably so, once you’ve seen it, particularly from a wicker armchair on the verandah of SALT at Waterford Estate with a glass of chilled Rose-Mary rosé to hand. Beyond the stately façade, the emphasis is on service and serenity that leans into the rhythm of the Mediterranean. You can have a simple wine tasting, a wine and chocolate pairing or a light lunch alongside other oenophiles, culinary travellers and anyone interested in the hows and whys of wine-making. The updated space and menu results in a refined dining experience focused on globally inspired dishes and the estate’s wines. You’re not here to be impressed by technique, though there’s plenty of that; you’re here to be fed well, in a way that feels thoughtful and generous. Plump nubs of sautéed gnocchi are a standout – enveloped in a rich tomato purée and scattered with fried capers, olives, sun-dried tomatoes and basil leaves. The Chalmar beef sirloin is meltingly tender and, combined with red wine butter, bone marrow, a Caesar salad and thick golden chips, makes a perfect mouthful. The dessert menu is brief and to the point. Tiramisù with layers of coffee-soaked biscuits and mascarpone cream or, our choice, affogato – a hefty curl of vanilla bean gelato joined by a shot of hot espresso. Then, there’s the wine – plus the magic of sipping it on its home soil. Don’t miss the Waterford Portfolio Experience. Visitors will gain a fully immersive lesson in the world of winemaker Mark le Roux’s respected wines, which are favourites among collectors sommeliers.
Waterford Estate, Upper Blaauwklippen Road, Stellenbosch
021 880 5300
cellardoor@waterfordestate.co.za
Plenitude at Majeka House
There’s no shortage of chef-driven, acclaimed restaurants at high-end hotels around Cape Town, but this one stands out. Artistry, whimsy and an abundance of ingredients straight from the kitchen garden are all on the menu at chef Callan Austin’s latest venture at Majeka House, a jewel-box boutique hotel in the heart of Stellenbosch. Surrounded by lush green cacti-filled gardens with vivid blue wrought-iron furniture, this boldly decorated hotel is a design-lover’s fantasy. Plenitude at Majeka House, where tables spill across an indoor dining room and outdoor terrace, is the main event. Amid all the greenery are warm colors and accents, like moody dark woods and gold pendant lights. A sun-dappled spot beneath the striped awning – where the scent of trailing jasmine hangs in the air, amongst oversized pots and patterned floor tiles – is the perfect place to while away a lazy afternoon. For dinner guests, time your evening with the sunset; the colours that play out with the Blaauwklippen Mountains in the background will leave you swooning. So too will the menu, which displays Austin’s connection to bountiful produce. Case in point: The Thai-inspired seared tuna. The clean, fresh flavour of the fish is accented by a tangy tamarind and curry leaf dressing and bursts of green apple and basil. Not to be outdone, the beef tartare comes with spring onion paratha, grilled mushrooms and a conversation-stopping Parmesan custard. Then onto deeply comforting braised lamb belly served with brilliant potatoes Dauphinoise and bordelaise sauce. Roasted line fish freshened up with leeks and a citrus beurre blanc reflects a confident grasp of classic technique. A prawn and potato croquette takes it to the next level. Light, elegant desserts like chocolate mille feuille (delicate puff pastry layered with chocolate crémeux and topped with hazelnuts) and coconut panna cotta (brightened with passion fruit gelée, whipped Malibu ganache and basil) complete the picture, all served by an attentive team. It’s a polished performance from lunch through to late-night supper.
26 Houtkapper Street, Paradyskloof, Stellenbosch
021 880 1549
